“A DAY AT THE PARK”

Plzen is officially the new destination of my dream summer house. Home of the famous Pilsner Urquell brewery, this small town holds the secrets to creating one of Czechia’s most culturally-significant drinks. While I was certainly impressed by the intricate brewing process behind everyone’s favorite Pilsner, the beer faded into the background upon venturing toward the town’s main square. It turns out this town holds treasures far beyond brews.

Right outside Republic Square sprawled a greener-than-green park, complete with towering rose gardens and bubbling fountains. Benches lined the walkway that separated the flowery parts from the big lawn, and they were studded with young families. It was there that I spent the rest of my day laying in the warm grass, and it was there that I stumbled upon this two year-old beauty.

The young boy captured above was like a ray of sun incarnate, his nearly-white hair all you’d notice as he dashed across the cropped grass. When I stopped to talk with the woman who was with him, she told me in broken English that she was his nanny. I was barely able to squeeze in a reply before she sprinted across the lawn to scoop him up and bring him back to the bench where the rest of their things were, laughing the whole way. He then immediately turned his attention to his little red bus, and I snapped a picture during one of the few moments he looked up at me.

To think that I experienced such a precious moment in a simple garden located in a town known only for beer makes the memory that much more distinct. Expecting the unexpected is a must in the world of photography, and this photo proves that noticing the little joys, if you have the courage to ignore the bigger picture, can actually enrich your art.

“THE PERFORMER”

Around Here

Old Town Square (Staroměstské *náměstí*) // 6.6.2019

Street performer culture is alive and well in and around Old Town Square. Acts range from men painted silver like statues to artists crafting landscapes using spray paint. Many of these entertainers are the same types of people tourists encounter in big U.S. cities like New York or LA, though Prague is not nearly as metropolitan as these areas. While all these acts deserve applause, the people I’ll really stop and observe are the ones that are unique to Czechia.

One such act was this young man, who had claimed a space for himself on a road outside the square by strategic placement of speakers. As he pressed play on his iPhone and stepped into the center of his invisible stage, slow piano began to trickle out from his stereo. He held in his hand a clear ball, which he proceeded to let slide along his arms as he simultaneously began to dance. He ended his dance in the pose pictured above, scarcely touching the ball with his hands the entire time. I had seen acts like this on talent shows, but never in real life. This type of dance is especially popular in Eastern Europe, which made it a sweet moment to witness so close to its home.

“WE ARE NOT BLIND.”

Location Notations

Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí) // 6.5.2019

The Czech Republic has found its voice, and history is being written because of it.

Without getting into the messy details, the Czech are currently in the midst of protesting the recent actions of their prime minister, Adrej Babis, who is believed to have committed EU subsidy fraud. What is being called the largest Czech rally since the Communist era took place in Wenceslas Square yesterday, and it was covered by some of the biggest names in the journalism world. I got to wade my way into the thick of it, my first time documenting a protest.

The Czech are a quieter culture than America with respect to most things, and this demonstration was no exception. There were no arrests made and no objects being hurled, things you might typically associate with such a politically-charged affair. There were only impassioned speakers and faithful sign-holders, with lots of whistling, clapping, and chanting from all sides. The exceptionally nonviolent nature of this event created an atmosphere so distinct from anything large gathering I’d experienced back home. Peaceful demonstrations can still attract global attention.

To say the protest was family friendly would be an understatement; children flooded the area. It was almost reminiscent of a music festival, but without the evil looks from people as I pushed through the crowd to get some shots. Kids sat in strollers, stood on benches, and even peered above the crowd from the safety of their parents’ shoulders, like the boy above. The red letters on the sign he held translate to “we are not blind.” Indeed, it seemed like every set of eyes in Prague were open and unafraid that night, and it was moving.

“SMALLNESS”

A Thousand Words

Pinkas Synagogue (Židovské muzeum) // 6.5.2019

The Jewish people have been faithful residents of Prague for centuries, so World War II left a deep emotional scar in the city’s heart. Today we had the opportunity to tour the Jewish Quarters in Old Town, which included a few synagogues and a cemetery. Pinkas Synagogue, the second-oldest synagogue in Prague, was built by the influential Horowitz family in the 16th century as a place of prayer. Today its walls hold the hand-written names of nearly 80,000 Czech Jews who lost their lives at the hands of the Nazis at Terezin Camp, which we will get the chance to visit later this month.

The memorial, written in red and black ink, took up the main wall space of three entire rooms in the synagogue. Sprawling paragraphs of tiny letters rose up on all sides, boxing in each visitor and leaving him no choice but to face the gruesome story of the Holocaust. One man in particular stayed glued to his audio tour as he perused the lists, taking in the scene through both his ears and his eyes. He traveled through the space slowly, pausing often to read more of the text. It was both a challenge and a privilege photographing the faces of people as they processed the weight of the memorial while working through the gravity of it all internally myself.

It almost felt like a violation or exploitation of a sacred space to be worried about something so superficial as angles and lighting as I walked through the synagogue. Yet, I ultimately found myself remembering the good that comes from using photography as a portal to transport viewers into an intimate scene and moment. The scale of a single man against hundreds of names that once were skin and bones, just like him, conveys the sense of smallness I felt wandering through that space.

“BALL GAME HALL”

Architecturally Speaking

Even if I weren’t such a fan of all things architecture, there’s no way to visit the city of Prague without being struck by the buildings rising above the cobblestone streets. Today’s visit to the Royal Gardens only emphasized the power architecture holds over mankind centuries after it is built; the crowds around the Summer Palace and St. Vitus Cathedral were substantial, especially for a Monday morning. I often find myself suppressing the urge to gush about the importance of intentional architecture, and usually just end up taking my built-up energy out on my camera’s shutter. Filling the “Architecturally Speaking” category won’t be a problem.

Thankfully, the crowds hadn’t yet spilled over toward the palace’s surrounding buildings, where we spent most of our time today. One such structure, a Renaissance-style building called Ball Game Hall, sported intricate carvings on its white exterior. The hall served as a recreational facility for the royals staying in the palace nearby during the 16th and 17th centuries, but was later adopted as military storehouse until the 20th century. Because of the damage it incurred over time, it was eventually reconstructed in the 1950s. The woman photographed above spent a good bit of time deciphering the various images engraved on the facade, most of which are classical figures in line with its Renaissance style.

The hall is a perfect example of how effective a marriage between art and architecture can be, especially in terms of a building’s design and overall message. The smooth face of the building, with its even rhythm of arches and embedded columns, is an unassuming white canvas that leaves room for embellishment while still possessing an aesthetic of its own. Yet, because it features such detailed artwork, it evokes emotion that would otherwise remain unaccessed.

“LEISURE”

Location Notations

The Letna district of Prague is known for its scenic view of the entirety of Old Town, and is also home to one of the most-frequented beer gardens in the city. Letna Park, which extends along the south-facing hillside, was bustling with colorful people this warm afternoon, such as the turbaned woman captured above. While her friend sat across from her in simplistic black stripes, she screamed style and sass with the bright pink accents in her outfit, which immediately caught my eye. The two were enjoying a conversation in a patch of forest all their own, away from crowds.

This photo encapsulates my own mental picture of “summer” to a tee: warm sun, lush grass, and purposeful conversation. While the beautiful skyline of a bustling city lay just beyond the treeline, these girls found leisure in the folds of nature. As cliche as it sounds, we all know finding time to escape everyday busyness is no easy feat. To me, the Czech seem to be experts at setting aside time to just enjoy the sweet things in life, creating spaces and moments that revive their spirits. This extensive park, with each of its little glades, reveals the societal values behind the culture that established it. The Czech work “letna” translates to “summer,” and no doubt the Letna gardens are one of those rare physical manifestations of the word.

“WHEN IT RAINS, IT POURS!”

Weekend Miser

Outside the Mustek metro stop this afternoon stood a man with a bucket full of soap. In his hands he held two wooden sticks tied together at the top with knots of string, a tool of sorts. As he dipped the string into the bucket, children emerged from between the legs of their moms and dads, entering the center of the crowd surrounding the man. He made a few mischievous faces at a couple of the kids before waving his homemade contraption up above his head. The band of children immediately erupted into screams as a trail of bubbles rained down on them from above, each beaming as they reached toward the sky. When the last of the bubbles popped and the laughter died down, the man would wave his sticks yet again and release another round.

This cycle continued again and again as the afternoon continued. The incredible thing was, each and every time it rained bubbles the surrounding screams grew louder and smiles grew bigger. No doubt the Bubble Man, who performed the same ritual over and over, sees his job as monotonous at times. But for those expectant young faces, each time it poured it was like it was the first time. Joy can be found in the simplest of things, and doesn’t have to cost a thing. At least, the girl captured above seems to believe so.

If you and your family are looking for something affordable to do on a weekend in Prague, you can’t miss wandering around the areas surrounding Old Town Square. The most enjoyable times of my stay so far have revolved simply around strolling and observing the culture that thrives here in the city.

“GIRLS, SISTERS, DAUGHTERS”

Around Here

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been taught to acknowledge that the freedoms Americans enjoy are not universal and to be grateful for the lifestyle I am able to live in the U.S. In countries across the globe, different people groups suffer from restricted freedoms. There are a few specific parts of the world that come to mind when I think of communities with limited rights, and admittedly the Czech Republic has never been one of those. Yet, the Roma community in Czechia faces massive discrimination and segregation.

The Romani people are the Czech Republic’s largest ethnic minority group. Romani wondered from their place of origin in India starting in the 9th century, eventually making their way into the Czech Republic over 600 years ago. They are commonly referred to as gypsies, mistakenly labeled by the rest of the country with many of the negative characteristics associated with such people. Essentially, the Roma community currently faces real social loathing to the point of segregation and poverty throughout Czechia.

Once a year, however, the Romani community bands together for a summer festival, which features a lively parade. Dozens of (mostly female) Roma donned festive garb as they twirl down the streets near Old Town Square today, accompanied by male musicians and a swarm of tourists. The parade was comprised of a broad age spectrum, though children made up a significant percentage. The parade and festival as a whole aimed to remind the rest of the country that the Romani are a legitimate part of society that deserves respect, despite the civil struggles they endure daily.

Pictured above are two young girls seated in a hired horse-drawn carriage that swooped in to lead the parade about halfway through the procession. They spent their whole ride smiling for an enchanted audience, twirling their skirts and posing for photos. As the front of the parade, they served as the precious face of the Romani people and their fight for social equality. Their innocent yet stunning presence struck me as I followed them through the streets. They have likely already faced obstacles that I will never have to, and yet there was something universal in their childlike beauty. Each of those girls was a sister and a daughter, just like me.

“STEADY”

A Thousand Words

*Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) // 5.30.19*

As one of the top destinations in the city, Old Town Square is a historic area jam-packed during tourist season. It boasts colorful European architecture, restaurants teeming with local food, and a wide variety of street performers during the day. Almost every type of tourist imaginable can be spotted soaking in the sights of the square right up until closing time.

The sidewalks just outside the square are lined with retail, and have various booth-like spots in the middle of walkways. One of the more conspicuous stands had counters lined with jars of colorful paint, situated next to a jenga-like structure made from painted bricks. At one side of the stand stood a young boy putting the finishing touches on a brick of his own, with a man (likely his father or grandfather) gently looking over his shoulder. He spoke kindly to the boy as he painted, lending a steady hand when needed. After the boy called his painting complete, the man placed the brick on top of the stack.

The brick was one of many painted as part of the Beneficial Brick Initiative, a charity dedicated to helping individuals with special needs in Czechia. For a small donation, visitors can join the hundreds of artists who have contributed to this project by decorating their own brick. The initiative has been wildly successful, providing for 35 facilities where members of the special-needs community can “live, work, and relax,” according to their website. This tender moment captured above between a boy and his father-figure is yet another benefit this charity provides. The brick built a sweet memory between the two painters who invested in a cause, a testament to the idea that generosity is always repaid.

“PUT ON A SHOW”

Not From These Parts

Wallenstein Garden (Valdštejnská zahrada) // 5.29.19

Our first full day in Prague, my group of friends and I set out across town to explore different stops along the metro. We eventually happened upon the Wallenstein Palace grounds, which featured a stunning geometric garden straight out of a European history textbook. The early Baroque-style space was trimmed to perfection, featuring enchanting ponds, an ornate pavilion, and even a cave grotto dripping with stalactites. The Wallenstein Garden was used as a set location for a scene in the Academy Award-winning film Amadeus, and proved to be just as regal in real life as it appears in the movie.

The main attraction at Wallenstein, as it turns out, wasn’t just the landscape. The garden is home to several peacocks, and these feathery beauties attracted flocks of tourists each time they opened their plumage. One all-white peacock in particular remained the center of attention during our afternoon visit, with cameras clicking around it constantly. Above is featured the small group of viewers who first arrived at the scene, and a larger crowd accumulated as the bird continued to pose.

Visitors remained enamored with this peacock’s feather display, as the phones around me began to flood social media platforms with photos and videos of its beauty. Watching the peacock gracefully put on a show for its visitors reminded me of the “show” we as travelers can put on for our own world of followers online. We tend to share the most glamorous moments of our experiences in broad on social media, leaving the “less-exciting” moments undocumented. I am no exception to this mindset. But as I continue to post on this blog, I hope that my photos will give a truly holistic view of Prague and its culture, not just its most dazzling attractions. Cheers to a month of learning and living here in Czechia!

Bohemian blogging

a study-abroad photo project by Arianna Flores