“HUMILITY”

Morning Glories
Želivského Bus Stop // 6.27.2019

On my last full day in Prague, I was up at the crack of dawn to shoot some final sunrise photos. I decided to venture in the opposite direction of downtown from our apartments, hoping to discover some new morning activities that only take place when the sky is pink. Turns out, I got lucky.

Just past the Želivského metro stop, buses on buses were pulled over at what could only be described as a resting point. Some of their drivers were sleeping, slumped over the wheel to catch some last-minute snoozes. Others were wiping windows and windshields, making sure their buses were in tip-top shape. The man above, however, sat quietly reading a book. He was shy and almost confused when I stopped and asked to photograph him, as if he didn’t understand why I would want to capture a moment like this. I wish I could have communicated to him how grateful I was to him for the humble job he performs each and every day. I had to settle for a blog post.

Bus, tram, and metro drivers are some of the unspoken heroes of Prague. Without them, none of the experiences I got to enjoy the last several weeks would have even been possible. I will miss the simple life I’ve gotten to live here in Prague, where my only worries have been making photos and choosing which place to eat for dinner. Here’s a big thank you to everyone who worked so hard to make these last few weeks some of the most impactful of my life. I’ll never be able to repay you.

“TO WORK”

Morning Glories
A Tram Stop // 6.26.2019

Mornings in Prague are quiet, especially at 5:30 a.m. Yet the early hours of the day have proved particularly good times to encounter locals, as tourists aren’t typically early-risers. I’ve found that, while there aren’t many people walking the streets of the city, there tend to be a good amount of folks gathered at tram stops in the morning on their way to work. Such was the case with the two men above.

I first approached them because, from a distance, their bright red uniforms reminded me of fire-fighters. They spoke next to no English, but I was able to communicate my desire to make their picture well enough through gestures. After attempting to chat with them again, they were able to communicate that they worked for a construction company and were on their way to work. The one on the left was eager to see the photos I had taken, while the one on the right kept to his cigarette the whole time.

There’s something intriguing to me about the emotionless stares they are giving in this photo, and I can’t quite put my finger on why I like their vacant expressions so much. Maybe it’s because they are fairly accurate representations of the demeanor of Czech people as a whole. On the other hand, they also look kind of scary. Anyhow, I’m grateful the two were up for a photoshoot at such an ungodly hour.

“QUALITY TIME”

The Nocturnalist
Prague Astronomical Clock (Prague Orloj) // 6.25.2019

If you haven’t heard about the Love Language test, you must have been living under a rock lately. It’s my personal favorite of the currently popular personality tests, and easy to take too. Based on your answers to a series of questions, the test tells you which ways you give and receive love best in your day-to-day life. One of the possible language options is “quality time.” If your vernacular is quality time, you feel most loved when you have someone’s undivided attention, and you most enjoy engaging in meaningful activities and conversation. The two men pictured above were an excellent example of what quality time can look like here in Prague.

Even in their old age, these friends took time out of their day to sight see around Old Town Square, parking to chat for a while in the night-time shade of the Astronomical Clock. They were moving at a leisurely pace, invested in their gentle conversation. It was obvious by their body language that they also were big people-watchers, an activity quite common for those who love quality time. I hope that even when my hair turns grey I’ll still make time to go on night-time walks with my people, especially in oh-so-scenic places.

“WHAT IS LOVE?”

Noticed
Prague (Praha) // 6.24.2019

I am surprised it’s taken me this long to post a photo of a couple here on the blog. Truly everywhere you turn in Prague there are pairs of lovers gazing into each other’s eyes, and my classmates have done a thorough job documenting these encounters. Romance and relationships look physically different here in Europe, and the contrast is substantial when compared to the States. Based on the social queues I’ve picked up on, it seems dramatic public displays of affection are widely accepted or even expected. The couple above was keeping things uncharacteristically low-key as they chatted by a small fountain, so I had to snap a picture.

Admittedly, walking but 10 minutes among the beauty of European buildings is enough to elicit warm fuzzy feelings for days. It would be interesting to explore how much of the PDA here in Prague is rooted in societal norms versus environmental influences. It’s probably a little bit of both, like in the US. There it feels like the waters are even more muddied by the popularity of rom-com movies or TV shows like The Bachelorette, which treat romance as entertainment.

These differences in expression of love make me wonder how different the expectations that come with love are across cultures. Gender equality has not progressed here in Prague to the same degree that it has in the US; just spend one night out on the town and you’ll discover this quickly. But the divorce rates are essentially the same in the two countries, according to one of our tour guides. In the end, comparing and contrasting might not do much good. Perhaps it’s enough to say that love here in Prague looks unfamiliar, but is surely the same feeling down at its core.

“TRDLNECK CULTURE”

The Nocturnalist
Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) // 6.23.2019

Late-night snacking is almost an art back home. As a college kid, midnight munching sustains everything from post-date event hunger to painful all-nighters. Here in Czech, the majority of restaurants and snack stands close just after dark, which has admittedly been an adjustment. This seems to be a product of an earlier eating schedule; the Czechs prefer to eat earlier and lighter dinners (lunch is usually the main culinary attraction).

In Old Town Square around 9 pm, the few food stands still selling sweets saw a trickle of customers, and I got to watch as they began to close up their booths. This particular man was trying to sell the last of his trdlneks right below the Astronomical Clock tower, looking tired from a long day’s work. Trdlnecks, or “chimney cakes” in English, are most comparable to a cinnamon pretzel twisted into a spiraled, cone-like shape. They can be used like a cup and filled with ice cream or fruit, or just eaten as is. Originally from Hungary, they’re all the rage among tourists who visit Prague. At the booth photographed above, the entire back wall was covered with rows on rows of these trdlneks.

While there were definitely complaints from the peanut gallery about cutting the late-night snacking here in Prague at first, I think downing a whole trdlnek right before bed would really do damage to my digestive system. Perhaps the Czech’s restrictive eating hours are actually doing my body a favor.

“TRAVELERS”

Morning Glories
Prague Train Station (Praha hlavní nádraží) // 6.22.2019

We had the opportunity to visit Prague’s train station as a group during our architecture tour a few days ago, but this morning a few friends and I got to witness the hustle and bustle of the station as 5 a.m. travelers. Right after we loaded our bags on a train to Salzburg, a large Asian family overwhelmed the remaining seats in our car. The chatter on the train immediately multiplied by ten, life pouring into a previously quiet place.

After the family got settled into their seats, which itself was a whole ordeal, they began to unpack and further make their presence known to the rest of the train. They had an entire box of pastries which they passed out to each other, as well as distributed several cups of coffee to keep them awake during the early hours. The couple pictured above seemed to be heading up the food distribution, and drank several cups of coffee themselves.

While it was slightly jarring to be forced into a close proximity with such a lively group when I still felt half asleep myself, it was somewhat nostalgic to see a large family traveling together. The excitement for their trip showed in their eyes; they hardly slept at all the entire four-hour train ride. It made me think of many of the sweet trips I’ve lived through with my family, which are always the best memories from every summer. I’m excited to be back and exploring new places with them soon.

“ART”

Not From These Parts
Church of Bones (Sedlec Ossuary) // 6.21.2019

Today’s excursion was reminiscent of the third Lord of the Rings movie: an overwhelming amount of skulls. We made the trip out to the Church of Bones in Kutna Hora, where the skeletons of thousands on thousands of people were unearthed and used to create the interior decor of an entire building in 1870. The Catholic chapel became a hot spot for burials across Europe after an abbot brought back a jar of Holy Soil from Golgatha, the place where Jesus died and was buried, which designated the site itself as holy. Eventually, the church had to exhume all of the bodies that lay resting there since the 13th century due to overcrowding. It was simultaneously unnerving and cool.

Bones from every part of the human body are organized into massive structures within the chapel; skulls and finger bones alike were displayed piled up into pyramids and assembled into chandeliers. The church was brimming with tourists glued to their phone screens, taking hundreds of pictures of the bleached bones that covered walls and corners. I can’t imagine the artistic eye it must have taken to design such elaborate structures like the ones we saw. Admittedly, bones aren’t a medium I would feel comfortable creating art with. But as creepy as may have looked, I felt oddly grateful to be exposed to such a different form of creativity. I can only guess that the girl captured above was wrestling with similar thoughts.

“CUSTOMS”

Around Here
A Tram // 6.20.2019

The public transportation system in Prague is ranked one of the best in the world and has made navigating the city during my time here incredibly safe and easy. While my friends and I frequent the underground metro most often, above-ground trams are another useful tool we’ve utilized for traveling farther distances. Unsurprisingly, unique Czech customs seep their way even into metro and tram etiquette.

As a young and able-bodied person, I am low on the social hierarchy when it comes to sitting down on public transit. It goes without saying among Czechs that the elderly are most deserving of a seat on trains and metros, followed by other adults, then children, then young adults and teenagers. If there are limited seats available on the metro when I walk on, I look around and make sure there are no elderly people boarding behind me before I take that seat, if I have the courage to sit at all. When I do sit down, I am constantly scanning the visitors that board at each stop to make sure I am ready to offer up my seat to someone who ranks above me.

If you disrupt or ignore this system by taking a seat when you shouldn’t, you will likely be glared at or even yelled at until you yield your spot (and trust me, the Czechs are not afraid of public shouting). That’s why the woman I encountered above stood out to me instantly; she remained standing in front of me our entire tram ride despite the plethora of open seats around her. Her gaze was glued to the city beyond the tram windows, and standing certainly gave her a better view of outside. In fact, she was so fascinated by what was whizzing by her window that she never once noticed me snapping pictures over her shoulder in the reflection of the tram’s front wall. I can only guess that she cared just as much about enjoying her journey as reaching her destination, a refreshing thing to witness in the busy times we live in.

“GUARDED”

A Thousand Words
Small Fortress at Terezín (Theresienstadt) // 6.19.2019

I have to be honest. This photo is hard to write about.

Above is a portrait of the security guard who sat in front of one of the entrances to the Small Fortress in the town of Terezin, a site used as a prison by Nazi Germany. Our group took a day trip to this small military town turned concentration camp, and we ended our time there with a tour of the brutal living conditions political prisioners endured in the fortress. We also were able to walk through the Nazi’s crematorium, several museums about concentration camp music and art, and the actual Terezin Ghetto where much of the Czech Jewish community was forced to reside.

Somewhere around 150,000 Jews were filtered through the whole of Terezin during the four years it was active. The camp functioned as a waiting room of sorts; the infamous mass executions by ovens or gas chambers did not take place in Terezin. Rather, the thousands on thousands of Jews who died in Terezin suffered from disease and malnutrition due to conditions that were barely livable. Or they were executed by a firing squad against the walls of the fortress.

Wrestling with the realities of the Holocaust has always been difficult for me, and I know I’m hardly alone in that struggle. Reading books or watching movies about World War II leaves me emotional enough, but it was a whole different depth of pain to walk through the physical buildings where innocent Jews were killed en masse. The proximity of history here is unlike anything I’ve experienced. I let myself sit in that pain rather than trying to ignore it, which proved equal parts beautiful and scarring.

As I reflected on the events of the day, I couldn’t help but juxtapose the man above who monitored the people entering the grounds and the Nazi guards who ensured no Jews ever left the fortress. One strives to preserve, the other aimed to destroy. In this way, the Small Fortress itself feels redeemed, and the difficult feelings it evokes are a sort of testament to the hard work of those who maintain the grounds. Terezin is only able to elicit such sadness because of the way it is cared for, which I find a tiny piece of solace in. The atrocities that unfolded there deserve to be remembered in their fullness of pain.

“BREAKFAST!”

Small Wonder
Prague (Praha) 6.18.2019

Headshot Coffee has genuinely been the MVP of this study abroad program. Located right outside the building where we meet for classes, it just so happens to be some of the best-quality coffee we’ve found here in Prague. For some reason, the Czechs don’t seem to value well-made coffee like us American snobs. Anyways, early morning walks to Headshot in the soft sunshine will definitely be missed. My friends and I typically make the trek well before our classes begin to ensure a leisurely start to our morning. The path we take cuts through a gorgeous rose garden lined with benches, which usually aren’t too crowded during our earliest journeys. This particular morning, however, a school group flooded the scene.

What made the group stick out, however, was not the loud chatter or bright clothes. It wasn’t even the time school normally starts, yet each and every one of the kids held in their hand a half-finished ice cream cone. They were all going to town on their dessert-for-breakfast setup, and it was a scene full of energy. As I stopped to take a picture, one of the kids looked up from his ice cream and gave a happy wave. His greeting overflowed with contagious excitement, and I thanked him for letting me make his picture as I walked past. For all the struggles of street photography we’ve encountered so far, there are just as many joys that give endurance and purpose to our field of work. This moment was certainly one of them. And to think they didn’t even need coffee to be full of life in the early hours of the morning!